西望洋山

葡萄牙與中國相匯之處

位於澳門半島南灣和內港之間的這一帶（西望洋山），有很多景點值得一看，所以建議在遊覽過程中要安排進餐的時間。另外請注意：最好不要星期二進行這條遊覽路線，因為海事博物館星期二休館。

從議事亭前地出發，沿民政總署側的蘇雅利醫士街上行……左轉沿東方斜巷上行至崗頂前地，崗頂前地路面用葡式碎石仔鋪設，組成波浪形的圖案，前地上豎立的綠色街燈，古色古香……崗頂前地左邊是聖奧斯定教堂（由奧斯定教士於1586年興建，教堂內供奉著耶穌受難聖像，每年苦難耶穌聖像從聖奧斯定教堂出發，沿城中設立的苦路巡遊）……崗頂前地右邊是明愛老人中心、何東圖書館和聖若瑟修院……正前方是崗頂劇院（中國最古老的歐式劇院，1858年開放，至今仍用作演出場地）……經劇院旁的斜巷向下到龍嵩正街……向右一直前行至風順堂街……別忘了參觀聖老楞佐堂（教堂內的祭壇古雅端莊，屋頂是中國式的金字瓦面）……如果喜歡看教堂的話，可以沿聖老楞佐堂右邊至風順堂上街，這裡有聖若瑟修道院小堂（由耶穌會會士修建，教堂的平面佈局是拉丁十字形，上方是穹頂，教堂內有一聖物盒，裡面擺放著聖方濟各‧沙勿略的臂骨，聖方濟各‧沙勿略死於澳門南面的上川島）……回到龍嵩正街，沿狹窄的卑第巷一直向下至南灣大馬路……左邊是一座富南歐建築風格的樓宇 -- 澳門特別行政區政府總部……轉右，沿南灣大馬路向前行，馬路的另一邊是新填海區，那裡有人工湖、澳門旅遊塔和音樂噴泉……經過數個餐廳之後，可見到一座有一百多年歷史的建築，現在是利瑪竇學校，還可見到一個市政兒童公園，在園內孩子們可蹬著小車學習駕駛……轉右，沿灰爐斜巷上行，經過葡萄牙駐澳門總領事官邸（前峰景酒店）和濠璟酒店（在這裡可以休息一會兒和喝點兒飲料）……現在沿竹室正街上行，轉左拐入西望洋斜巷，就到了主教府和西望洋聖堂（教堂對外開放，這裡還是眺望澳門和離島景色的絕好瞭望台……另外，這裡的紀念品商店也值得逛一逛）……沿鮑公馬路下行……經過聖珊澤宮（前澳督官邸，該府第與前澳督府都是由本地建築師托馬斯‧德‧阿基若建造的）……來到民國大馬路……轉右，沿舊海堤一直向前走，左邊可看到矗立在人工島上的融和門（中葡友誼紀念碑）……拐彎處是聖地牙哥酒店（十七世紀的炮台，後在此建造葡式酒店。酒店內擺設著當年的家具，酒店還有一個室外茶座，可在這裡餐飲，也可欣賞周圍的風景）……繼續沿媽閣上街往前走，經過船塢，來到媽閣廟（建於明朝，由建在巖石上的四個殿組成，供奉漁民的守護神——娘媽。澳門的葡文名字源於該位女神）……穿過媽閣廟前地，前地的地面用葡式碎石仔鋪成，來到一號碼頭（這裡可能是當年第一批福建人和葡萄牙人登陸的地方），澳門海事博物館座落於此（博物館的造型似一艘船，收藏了大量珍貴的文物，見證了澳門地區與大海之間的關係……館外的展品包括一艘傳統的商船和一艘雙桅帆船。在這裡還可以乘坐傳統中式帆船暢遊內港及南灣一帶。博物館每日上午十時至下午五時半對外開放，星期二休館）……現在肯定飢腸轆轆了，河邊新街周圍有一些澳門最好的葡國餐廳（分葡式和澳門式），可隨意進入一家，品嚐一下著名的美味佳餚……飽餐一頓之後，可乘坐巴士或的士回市中心或酒店或碼頭。

錢納利的足跡

凡熟悉錢納利繪畫作品的人都能認出澳門舊城的很多街道……我們建議的是一條漫長的旅遊路線，但是，如果時間短暫，可以有選擇地參觀遊覽。遊覽從基督教墳場開始（錢納利的墓碑是設計最精緻的其中一個；馬禮遜也安葬在這裡，錢納利於1838年將馬禮遜的墓碑畫入他的畫作中）……錢納利的繪畫藝術在英國和印度取得成功後，於1825年抵達澳門……之後他一直在這裡從事他的藝術創作，成為中國沿海地區最著名的畫家，1852年於澳門逝世……在錢納利那個年代，英屬東印度公司總裁官邸（ Casa Garden ）成為英國商人在澳門的聚會點，一直至他們遷往香港。當時的“公園”，即現在的白鴿巢公園，是一處非常熱鬧的地方。白鴿巢公園與其附近的大炮台和聖保祿教堂，經常成為錢納利畫筆下的景物。錢納利有關聖保祿教堂的素描是現存少有的表現教堂被大火燒燬之前景象的畫作……繼續向議事亭前地行走，這一帶的歷史性建築物，如聖母玫瑰堂、仁慈堂，經常成為錢納利的素描和水彩畫中（街頭玩耍的兒童、街頭的理髮師、街市的小販和動物（豬））的背景……從議事亭前地出發，沿龍嵩正街一直前行到“崗頂”（在錢納利那個年代這樣稱呼），當時這裡的有錢人可以居高臨下地遠眺海旁人家……錢納利在鵝眉街租了房子（現在這幢樓已不存在，由於畫家住在此，附近的一條街叫錢納利街）……這附近一帶的聖老楞佐堂和聖若瑟修道院小堂等經常出現在他的素描和水彩畫中……如要欣賞錢納利最有名的畫作，我們一定要去南灣，盡管得有豐富的想像力才能勾畫出當年南灣這一帶的旖旎風光……從南灣一直向前可到媽閣廟，媽閣廟一帶變化不大。當然，媽閣廟前的水面上已經不見了當年的漂亮的舢舨蹤影。

Where Portugal meets China

There is a lot to see on the peninsula that lies between the Praia Grande and the Inner Harbour, so we suggest you break your itinerary for a meal along the way. NOTE: Avoid taking the walk on a Tuesday, when the Maritime Museum is closed.

Leave Largo do Senado by Rua Dr. Soares, the road that runs up the side of the Civic & Municipal Affairs Bureau, formerly the Leal Senado... Branch left on Calçada Tronco Velho and find yourself in Largo S. Agostinho, with wave-patterned pavements and green lamplights...On your left is St Augustine's Church (established by the Augustinians in 1586, it enshrines the statue of Our Lord of Passion which is carried through the city at Lent via Stations of the Cross)...On your right are the headquarters of the Casa Ricci charity, the Sir Robert Ho Tung Chinese library and Chapel of St Joseph Seminary...Opposite is the Dom Pedro V Theatre (the oldest European theatre in China, it opened in 1858 and is still very active)...Take the cobbled ramp beside the theatre down to Rua Central...Go right and follow the road as it becomes Rua de S. Lourenço...Be sure to visit the St. Lawrence's Church (with an interesting altar and brilliant wooden ceiling)...If you like historic churches, go a right around St. Lawrence's to Rua do Seminário to the Chapel of St. Joseph Seminary (built by the Jesuits, in 'Latin Cross' shape with a dome.)...Retrace your steps to Rua Central and go down the narrow Travessa Padre Narciso to the Rua da Praia Grande...The splendid mansion on your left is Headquarters of the Macau SAR...Turn right and stroll along the praia, looking across the road at the new suburb with man-made lakes containing the Macau Tower and Cybernetic Fountain...Pass a variety of restaurants, the century-old house that is now the Ricci School and a children’s playground with a pedal-car driving school...Turn right, up the Calçada do Bom Parto, passing the home of the Portuguese consul (former Hotel Bela Vista) and Hotel Ritz (where you might want stop for a drink on the terrace)...Then head up Rua Boa Vista and turn left on Calçada da Penha to reach the Bishop’s Palace and Penha Chapel (only the chapel is open but the courtyard is a fine belvedere with panoramic views...the souvenir shops here are worth visiting)...Go down Estrada de D. João Paulino...passing Santa Sancha (like the old Government Palace, it was built by Macanese architect Thomaz de Aquino, and once the home of the governor)...to the Avenida da República...Turn right and follow the old sea wall...Rising from the bay to your left is the Gate of Understanding (a monument to Sino-Portuguese friendship)...Turning the corner you’ll reach Pousada de São Tiago (a 17th century fort transformed into a Portuguese inn with period furniture and fine terrace for refreshments and views)...Continuing around Barra Point, pass the Naval Dockyards to arrive at A-Ma Temple (built in the Ming Dynasty with hillside prayer halls dedicated to the Goddess of Seafarers A-Ma, who inspired the name Macau)...Cross Largo do Pagode da Barra with its patterned pavement, to Pier Number 1 (the possible landfall of the first Fukienese and Portuguese settlers), where you’ll find the Macau Maritime Museum (styled like a ship, with outstanding displays illustrating the relationship of Macau with the sea...outdoor exhibits include a traditional of trading junk and pirate-chasing lorcha brigantine. There is a pleasure junk for cruises. Open 10am-5.30pm. Closed Tuesday)...By now you must be hungry and you’ll find some of Macau’s best Portuguese/Macanese restaurants on the nearby Rua do Almirante Sérgio...take a bus or taxi back to town.

In the Footsteps of George Chinnery

Anyone who knows the paintings of George Chinnery will recognize many scenes in today’s old town...The following itinerary is a lengthy one, but you can select parts if time is short. Begin at the Old Protestant Cemetery (his tomb is one of the most elaborate...also here is the Morrison grave that he painted in 1838)...Chinnery arrived in Macau in 1825. He stayed until his death in 1852 and became the doyen of China Coast artists...In his days, this area was something like a British enclave, because the Casa Garden was rented by British merchants, until the founding of Hong Kong...The garden, now Camões Garden, was a popular retreat, and Chinnery painted it many times, as he did the nearby Monte Fort and St. Paul’s (his drawing of the church is one of the few showing it before the fire)...Continue on to the main square, which gave Chinnery many opportunities to use historic buildings, like St. Dominic's Church and the Santa Casa da Misericórdia, as backdrop for street scenes of children at play, itinerant barbers, market people and animals such as pigs...From the square take Rua Central to what, in Chinnery’s time, was known as The Ridge, because its wealthy residents could look down on the waterfront dwellers...The artist rented rooms on Rua Ignácio Baptista (the building is gone and for some reason the neighbouring street is named Rua George Chinnery)...which was close to some of his favourite subjects, St Lawrence’s Church and Chapel of St. Joseph Seminary...However, to see Chinnery’s most famous scenery you need to go down to the Praia Grande, though you’ll have to use your imagination to screen out the new reclamation...And then make your way to the A-Ma Temple, which hasn’t changed too much, even though the waterfront and pretty sampan girls have long retreated since.